The Land of Rivers
The Land of Rivers, written by Andrea Piaget.
Men cut an oblique line in the Amazon rainforest called Muñoz-Netto; it cut through the upper Amazon basin like an architect would precisely cut through an architectural model, creating a division between the territory of the Portuguese and Spanish empires. The history of the rubber boom in Bolivia has received scant attention; few people related in business to the rubber Barron of the period that emerged from the land of rivers, the Bolivian Oriente, and the lowlands of the nation, once belonging to the Spanish Empire. I landed into the history of the Bolivian rubber boom through an original letter, written in 1939 from Seville, Spain, by my second great-grandfather referring to Baron Nicolás Suárez Callaú with kinship, respect, and appreciation.
Second great grandfather Amadeus Czerniewicz Heitzmann, twenty-four years younger than Nicolás Suárez Callaú, refers to him as Don Nico, maintaining respect for the man who brought him across the Atlantic Ocean from Europe to Bolivia in the 1800s. Amadeus was twenty-five years old, just embarking upon life in which he would become one of the trusted financiers of the Suarez Brothers Empire—a thriving business, with a trading house in London established in 1871, exporting natural rubber and other forms of matéria-prima such as wood and chestnuts to Europe from the Amazon basin of Bolivia. Nicolás Suárez Callaú, a cruceño born in Santa Cruz de La Sierra, is known by scholars as the only international entrepreneur the Bolivian lowlands have produced thus far. His success was mainly his making, for family relations with Europe were surplus to his dedication and untiring spirit.
The process of exporting rubber was arduous. Rubber gatherers collected the milky liquid from trees from selected areas of the Bolivian lowlands, an extension of the Amazon basin covering more than two-thirds of the nation. The workers extracted the matéria-prima carefully from the bark of trees by a process called tapping. Then, treat the substance, a white and milky liquid, with ammonia and subsequently with acid, chemically coagulating the rubber from its raw liquid substance, preparing it for export, and passing it on to a human assembly line to pack and transport the final product.
The rubber was transported in boats, beginning their navigation from the Madre de Dios River at a village called Cachuela Esperanza in the municipality of Guayamerin, in the department of Bení. The fleet navigated past the confluence of the Madre de Dios and Bení rivers, taking the former to a small town called Rrurenabaque. Later, to pass the Yungas region, a band of forests along the eastern slope of the Andes Mountains, to arrive at the city of La Paz and then to the South American continent's South Pacific coast to ship to Europe.
Bolivia lost its Pacific coastline to Chile in 1879. The Suárez Brothers established a trading house in London in 1871; their business operated in Bolivia until perhaps several years past 1939, the date when Nicolás retired to London and his brother Fransisco was on his way to Cachuela Esperanza to oversee the business. [1] So, the brothers most likely kept their relations with other South American nations intact to export their products.
Records suggest that the navigators of the time lacked knowledge of what the rivers Bení, Mamoré, and Madre de Dios bequeathed, having had to take roundabouts from water to land and vis-a-vis until landing the product in the small town of Rrurenabaque for further transportation by land and then by sea. However, the success of the Suárez Brothers empire required the capacity to navigate the rivers so that the product could arrive at its designated location safely and promptly for export. The rivers of the Bolivian lowlands were at first unknown to Nicolás Suárez. Still, his lack of knowledge propelled his imagination, and the mysteries of the rivers would become known to this man, for he was fearless and unafraid of the tales of the Indian attacks. He persisted and prevailed over the river system, where most Europeans faltered for fear of the jungle.
Nicolás Suárez was acquainted with Dr. Edwin R. Heath's writings, The Explorations of The Lower Bení maps and original surveys made during his voyage down the Bení River published in the Proceedings of The Royal Geographical Society, London, 1882. Before his writings were published, Nicolás had listened to the man upon his triumphant return to Reyes, a city in Jose Ballivián province in the Bolivian Oriente. Dr. Edwin R. Heath was a North American doctor working as a medical officer for several railroad companies, notably in Peru and Brazil, who spent much of his time outside the United States, particularly in South America, where the abandonment of the project to build a railroad around the Madeira-Mamoré falls commissioned by the Philadelphia Company of P. & T. Collins failed in 1870, it ultimately failed, and the project was abandoned in 1879 after its fourth unsuccessful attempt in nine years. [2]
The circumstances left Dr. Edwin R. Heath with time to complete a task previously attempted by his brother Ivon D. Heath, who had been in an expedition with North American naturalist professor James Orton of the Bení River. Between 1876 and 1877, both men's attempts to link the known sections of the rivers were thwarted in proximity to the confluence of the Bení and Mamoré rivers by a revolt of his Indian bearers and their desertion.[3] Professor Orton was forced to abandon his third expedition in South America, and it was when he was en route to the United States via La Paz he suddenly died while crossing Lake Titicaca. Ivon D. Heath, Dr. Edwin Heath's brother, accompanied Orton during this expedition.[4] The river Ivon of the Bolivian Amazon basin is named after Dr. Edwin R. Heath's brother Ivon, and so is the river Orton after North American naturalist Professor James Orton. Edwin named both rivers while exploring the Bení River upstream. During his exploration of the Bení, his crew was harmonious without detrimental revolts to the explorations. When they made it back to the Bolivian city of Reyes after long periods of travel, he wrote the following in his diary:
On our arrival, bells were rung, houses decorated, a holiday proclaimed. School children met me 3 miles out and escorted me to Reyes. [5] Mass was said, and all seemed to consider my work a public benefit. Men became crazed over the rubber prospect...
Dr. Edwin R. Heath's expeditions, writings, and mapping inspired Nicolás Suárez to explore the unpredictable flows of the Amazon's rivers, and he did so full-heartedly and alone. In this excerpt, we can gather insight into the personality of Nicolás Suárez Callaú:
Nicolás immediately resolved to follow Heath's route down the Bení River and find a new trading site well to the northeast, closer to the heart of the 'rubber rivers' network. A few weeks later, as soon as the reins permitted, he was off, paddling alone. With the river in spate, Nicolás Suárez's first arrival at Cachuel Esperanza was almost his last, for the boat capsized, and only with great difficulty did he manage to haul himself and an overturned canoe up on the right bank of the river where the ascent out of the swirling waters is easier. As he camped that night, listening to the roar of the Bení tumbling over the only rock barrier to interrupt its navigation completely anywhere between the Andes and its confluence with the Mamoré River, Nicolas Suárez decided he had found the location he was seeking, at Cachuela Esperanza he would establish the new Suárez headquarters so, just as he had bypassed the fall by a short detour along the right bank others navigating the Bení would be forced to do the same. [6]
The Americans & The Rubber Boom of the Bolivian Lowlands
In 1851, the United States government became interested in Bolivian products, especially rubber. Separate from Dr. Edwin R. Heath's involvement with the Madeira-Mamoré railroad in unison with The Philadelphia Company of P. & T. Collins mentioned earlier, the Americans sent Navy Lieutenant Lardner Gibbon to immerse himself in the area and study the potential long-term viability of developing a rail link between the Amazon rivers of the Bolivian lowlands and Bolivian production centers. Notwithstanding being defeated by the terrain, heat, malaria, accidents, and violence, the railroad began its construction after the Treaty of Petrópolis was signed in 1903, an agreement establishing Bolivia would give away to Brazil the territory of Acre, 191,000 square kilometers of land, so Brazil can build a rail link to bypass the Madeira river.[7] Bolivia accepted and signed receiving Brazilian territory between the Abunâ and Madeira rivers, two million British pounds paid in two installments, and a rail link between the city of Riveralta and the Brazilian city of Porto-Velho, bypassing the rapids of the Madeira River, a treaty that closed on November 17th of, 1903.
The rubber barons of the Bolivian lowlands, Nicolás Suárez, Carlos Firzcarrald, and Antonio Vaca Diez, amongst a very few others, used to play an essential role in regional politics, but this culminated with the event of the Acre war and what is perceived to be a dictatorial meeting in Venezuela between politicians putting sanctions to entrepreneurship and their involvement in politics.[8] Both business partners of Nicolás Suárez, Carlos Fitzcarrald, and Antonio Vaca Diez drowned in the Urubamba River in Peru during an expedition. Antonio Vaca Diez was also a good friend of Dr. Edwin R Heath, having first met him in Reyes in 1876. During his expedition of the Bení, Dr. Edwin R Heath carved the name of Antonio Vaca Diez into a tree to claim the rubber forests for his friend at a confluence below the Madre de Dios River. The death of Nicolás Suárez's business partners in Peru generated an unexpected benefit, leaving many of Fitzcarrald's workers and many of his fleet under his ownership. Nicolás Suárez became the biggest exporter of rubber in Bolivia.
The railroad the Americans were so adamant about building is now abandoned in the Brazilian state of Ronônia, linking the cities of Porto Vehlo and Guajará-Mirim. Around the 1960s, the railroad was abandoned entirely when the Brazilian government built the BR-364, a road connecting the southeast of Sao Pablo and the Western state of Acre, land once belonging to Bolivia. The route BR-364 connects to the BR-362 inter-oceanic highway, an international highway linking Brazil and Peru to inter-oceanic access, ultimately excluding Bolivia completely.
Paris to Santa Cruz de La Sierra
From Paris to Santa Cruz de La Sierra
Great-grandfather Armand Czerniewicz Bejarano, the son of Amadeus Czerniewicz Haitzmann, (wrote using a typewriter) a letter to Radiodifussion-Television Française, 118 Champs-Élysées, Paris, May 6th, 1962, from Santa Cruz de La Sierra, Bolivia; it reads::
Sir A. Champ, Director of the Spanish broadcast:
I acknowledge that I received your letter dated the 11th of last month and did not respond before because I had been traveling, a thousand pardons. Here, you can hear the two short bands, 25 and 31 meters, but it is heard better, clearer, and stronger at 25 meters; this must be due to the proximity of both frequencies.
I listen to your announcers on my portable "Philips" radio. It is a small device I take wherever I go. I even put it next to my headboard and listen quietly in bed; this is wonderful.
Regarding your opinion and suggestion, I will tell you that I love France, where I left many friends and memories in Paris. Listening to Here Paris!, 11.920 Kcs, is a pleasant, instructive distraction. Also, the male and female announcers are indeed very interesting and pleasant; I feel transported by the ether to the very heart of my beautiful and delightful Paris. Its music and, in short, the quality of the content is remarkable, bringing back Paris to my heart. So many memories pass through my mind! Also, the Swedish, Dutch, German, and Swiss stations are very interesting. What I like the most is the music.
I heard on the broadcast of Monday the 16th that you dedicated some words to me in the company of Miss. Varlette. Thank you so much. I had my family together, which is my wife and children. Well, my opinion and suggestion are that you continue with your interesting and notable programs, which I feel very happy to listen to because in a "troubled" world I prefer to listen to heavenly music, mixed with music and songs from the Boulevard. Like for example, Ménilmontant de Chevalier. To conclude, I generously wish you all kinds of continued success in your broadcast. If possible, without demanding, I accept as a gift a Folies Bergére magazine. Thank you.I remain aware of your broadcast on Monday, May 21st, and in the meantime, I repeat myself as your attentive friend.
P.S. If you send the magazine, let it be by certified mail!!!
This letter is one of several written by Armand Czerniewicz Bejarano, the son of Amadeus Czerniewicz Heitzmann, to the Parisian broadcasting network, forming a gregarious friendship with Mr. A Champ over time. Armand's life in Paris was phenomenal. He spent his youth immersed in education in Bry-sur-Marne at the Château de Bry, a private Catholic school of the sisters of Saint Thomas of Villanova in the eastern suburbs of Paris, eight miles away from the heart of the city. Later, he moved to Paris to work as a financier at a trading house in Rue Ambroise-Thomas near Folies Bergère Performing Arts Theater. He was a regular at the union Chrétienne des Jeunes Gens de Paris in the 1920s at Rue Tréviso 8. But when the great depression took over Europe in the early 1930s, Armand set to journey to Madrid on business to later travel overseas to the Bolivian lowlands and to the nation where he was born to look after the trades of the Suárez Brothers & Co., just like his father had done during the most vigorous years of the rubber boom. [9]
During the great depression until the official beginning of World War II, Armand offered his father more than once to travel to Bolivia due to the agricultural progress the city of Santa Cruz de La Sierra underwent. Besides, Bolivia was one of the few countries in Latin America that maintained an official political stance to open the nation's borders to all peoples chased by the war. The nation accepted the highest number of immigrants between 1938-1940, between 7,000-8,000 people. On September 20th, 1939, Amadeus Czerniewicz Heitzmann responded to his son in writing by certified mail, communicating that the war taking place in Europe no longer allowed him to travel unless he risked it all. This letter was the last Armand received from his father. It is fascinating how the destinies of people's lives are embedded first in their personal choices and the inevitable repercussions of history. From my experience reading letters between the late 1930s and 1963, words had weight and gravitas while reading. They were meaningful. People waited for letters with angst; there was no room to be inauthentic, for communication was emotionally too expensive to take for granted.
It is a tremendous gift to understand the generations past of men in my heritage, enriching my present. Most moderns today say, "Forget the past. It's gone." I find such remarks always terribly shallow. Both men I learned about were French. My second great-grandfather was born in Bayonne Côte Basque, a man who studied and lived in Seville and traveled to Bolivia to be a trusted financier of Nicolás Suárez Callaú. His son, who returned to France at seven, also returned to Bolivia in the early 1930s during the great depression in Europe to represent Nicolás Suárez as his father had done before him.
Perhaps on nights like the current, they were amazed by the sounds this land sings. I predict they, too, felt as much freedom as I currently feel—a sophisticated kind of freedom nourishing the soul, reflective, introspective freedom. And so, I have learned that the past can be virtuous when well lived. The efforts and wisdom of the people who shaped my existence matter perhaps much more than the constant race toward ill-defined progress. There is great beauty in what once was. There was adventure, passion, and a tireless spirit of hope overflowing. After all, the singular gift of being from more than one culture is having multiple perspectives on the surrounding beauty.
THE KEYS TO TIME
Part one, Immigration from Europe to Bolivia: From Bayonne to Riveralta